Home//Olive Magazine/Easter 2018/In This Issue
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Welcome to EasterThe combination of time off and tradition makes Easter hugely appealing to me. Toasted (hot cross) buns for days, crushed by the weight of cold, salted butter. Chocolate eggs and marzipan eaten until your teeth hurt. Great hunks of ceremonial roasted meat – bones picked until they’re bare. Movie marathons, box-set binges and bracing walks punctuated by beer and crisp packets torn down the middle for sharing. And so we’ve put together an issue that will hopefully make all of those activities even more tempting. From big family roasts with a twist (Cuban pork or garlic butter chicken, anyone?) and cheesy feasts (buffalo chicken mac’n’cheese and deep-fried goat’s cheese) to the next-level, trendy bakes you can dedicate the whole weekend to, there is plenty of recipe inspiration. I’m just going…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018THE MISSING INGREDIENTWhat’s it about? Time and the role it plays in creating the food and flavours we love is the subject of Jenny Linford’s quirky book, from the split-second timings of caramelising sugar to the slow, unhurried processes of fermentation. Divided into chronologically themed sections – seconds, minutes, hours, days, months and years – the book explores the relationship between time and food through encounters with ingredients, cooks and producers. Why you should read it Thoughtful and absorbing, what distinguishes the book is how fluently it touches upon numerous different, and diverse, subjects. One chapter alone – ‘Months’ – takes the reader from a visit to a Regent’s Park beekeeper on a summer day to the preserving powers of fat and the workings of a herbalist in Sussex. Linford often goes…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018QUICK BITESJoe and Seph’s gingerbread popcorn With warming spice and a good crunch, this posh popcorn combines two of our favourite sweet treats. £4/80g, joeandsephs.co.uk Simply Special cinnamon ice cream Ice cream that tastes like the inside of a cinnamon bun – what more do you want? £4.99/500ml, Waitrose The Estate Dairy fresh chocolate milk Rich and silky, this chocolate milk made with Pump Street cocoa powder is sublime. £3.20/250ml, Selfridges Foodhall Yeo Valley baobab and vanilla yogurt This thick, creamy limited- edition yogurt is a well-balanced blend of sweet, fragrant vanilla and citrussy baobab, an African fruit sourced ethically from Zimbabwe. £1.70/450g, Sainsbury’s Sauce Shop smoky chipotle ketchup Sweet, smoky and smooth, this punchy sauce is great for dipping chips in. £2.99/250ml, ocado.com Balti-spiced chicken and spinach pie thin With…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Sunday BESTLamb shoulder with garlic potatoes and redcurrant glaze 4 HOURS | SERVES 4-6 | EASY whole bone-in lamb shoulder 2kg Charlotte potatoes 1kg, skins left on, halved lengthways garlic 1 bulb, broken into cloves rosemary 5 sprigs GLAZE redcurrant jelly 2 tbsp red wine 3 tbsp english mustard 1 tsp WATERCRESS AND PEA SALAD shallots 2, finely chopped white wine vinegar 2 tbsp english mustard 1 tsp olive oil 3 tbsp Birds Eye Petit* Pois 100g, defrosted watercress 200g • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Put the lamb in a large roasting tin and season well. Cook in the oven for 40 minutes uncovered then turn the oven down to 160C/fan 140C/gas 3, cover with foil, and keep cooking for another 3 hours. • While the lamb cooks,…6 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018GET LOADEDASIAN PULLED-PORK FRIES Heat through a pack of ready-made slow-cooked pork belly following pack instructions. Shred into chunks in the cooking tin and mix with 4 tbsp hoisin sauce. Mix 3 tbsp mayo with ½ a clove of crushed garlic. Put cooked french fries on a serving dish and spoon over the pork. Drizzle with the mayo, some sriracha and chopped roasted peanuts. CRAB THERMIDOR FRIES Mix 6 tbsp ready-made cheese sauce with 2 tsp of wholegrain mustard and a dash of Tabasco. Drizzle over cooked french fries then top with a handful of grated gruyère and flash under a hot grill. Mix 100g of white crabmeat with a good squeeze of lemon, a chopped red chilli and a handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley. Once the cheese is melted, spoon…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018HEALTHY TRENDSChai-spiced buckwheat crunchies 40 MINUTES + OVERNIGHT SOAKING | SERVES 6 EASY | An alternative to cereal that’s also delicious as a snack and is low in sugar. Soaking the buckwheat starts the sprouting process, which makes it much easier to digest. Tahini adds a rich creaminess to the texture. chai 3 tea bags buckwheat 200g, rinsed cardamom seeds ground to make 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1 tsp ground ginger a pinch raw cocoa powder 30g rice malt syrup 2 tbsp (available in larger supermarkets and health-food shops) coconut oil 60g, melted tahini 1 tbsp TO SERVE natural yogurt and berries • Put the tea bags into a jug and top up with 300ml of boiling water. Put the buckwheat into a large bowl, cover with the tea, topping up…7 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018CREAM OF THE CROPTORI AND BEN’S KINGS NEWTON, DERBYSHIRE Due to unprecedented demand for their products, award-winning longhorn beef farmers Tori (pictured right) and Ben Stanley opened a new farm shop with its own state- of-the-art butchery at the end of 2017. In an exciting development, they’ve partnered up with MasterChef: The Professionals finalist Sven-Hanson Britt to create an exciting food experience at the new butchery on Chantry Farm in rural Derbyshire. Set within 10 acres of beautiful grassland, the new site allows Tori and Ben to offer a diverse range of cuts and meats, including homemade charcuterie. In true farm-to-fork style, head butcher Vince talks to customers about the full range of butchered cuts of beef and lamb produced on their farm. Tori says: “We’ve been blown away by the demand for…9 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018pro vs punterSABOR, LondonThe pro Our editor Laura Rowe has reviewed restaurants for more than a decade. You can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @lauraroweeats . The punter South London-based Emma Geary loves Catalan food. She eats out twice a week and her best experience was at Parlour in Kensal Green, featuring blue cheese custard and salted caramel Rolos. Her guilty pleasure is a cheddar and marmite toastie with a fried egg on top. Sabor Nieves Barragán Mohacho and José Etura have teamed up to showcase their country’s finest produce and cuisine at restaurant and tapas bar Sabor on Heddon Street, tucked behind Regent Street in central London. Sabor means ‘flavour’ in Spanish, and there’s plenty of that in the dishes on offer over the restaurant’s two levels. The bookable upstairs…5 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018HOT OFF THE PASSJEREMY CHAN IN SHORT Favourite drink Negroni. Favourite dish Hainanese chicken rice. Most memorable meal Eating clams and pork stew in Macau as a child. It was a very memorable experience to taste colonial Portuguese flavours in East Asia. Chef or food personality he most admires Victor Arguinzoniz of Asador Etxebarri. Guilty pleasure McDonald’s Sausage and Egg McMuffin for breakfast. You’re an ambitious young chef. You’ve got a central London restaurant that’s quietly scooping up award after award, rave after rave. The restaurant’s packed. So what do you do? You ditch all your regulars’ favourites and start the menu from scratch. Er, really? Yes really, according to Jeremy Chan, the 31-year-old chef of Ikoyi in St James’s, who started off 2018 doing just that. After only six months of trading,…5 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018FRESH CONTENT EVERY DAYHandy recipe search Looking for showstopping Easter baking ideas? Want an easy family recipe? Use our smart filters to find exactly what you’re looking for, in seconds RESTAURANTS Read our nationwide restaurant recommendations and area guides, and discover the best afternoon teas in London. TRAVEL From exotic foodie destinations to cosy gastropubs with rooms, use our globetrotting ideas to plan your getaways. Easy-to-read recipes Thousands of Olive recipes, all beautifully presented and mobile-friendly, with new ideas published every day. Look out for our Easter ideas and recipe collections, too. DRINK A dedicated area for finding all things drink-related, from impressive co*cktail recipes to the best wines to drink with a roast. Podcasts Our weekly podcasts (and videos) are now all in one place! Newsletter Remember to sign up to our…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018On the road: CreteJust as I’m wondering what to rustle up for breakfast, sipping a strong coffee on the terrace, and gazing down over shimmering olive trees to Loutraki Bay, the doorbell chimes. I pad across the floor to the door. “There’s more to Cretan cuisine than moussaka.” George Koletsos, the owner of the modernist work of art masquerading as my villa, beams as he hands me a plate wrapped in tin foil. “Shepherd’s pie – cooked by my wife,” he adds. Not mince and mash but sfakian, flat pastry pancakes stuffed with mizithra, a crumbly white cheese, eaten hot and smeared with honey. As I tear off sweet, sticky, salty chunks, the silence broken by waves crashing on the beach below and the gentle jangle of goats’ bells, the life of a…8 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018INSTARTAVELHow to do it... Seven-night packages at Six Senses Zighy Bay cost from £1,675 per person, including flights, private transfers, breakfasts and accommodation in a Pool Villa (abercrombiekent.co.uk). For more info see experienceoman.om or search for # Olive EatsOman #OLIVETRAVELS FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018COVER starCroque monsieur galette 1 HOUR + CHILLING SERVES 6 EASY whole milk 150m1 gruyère 200g, grated cornflour 2 tsp white pepper all-butter puff pastry 500g block dijon mustard 1-2 tbsp thickly sliced ham 200g, fat trimmed egg 1, beaten with a pinch of salt • Heat the milk in a large pan until just simmering. Gradually stir in the cheese until melted. Mix the cornflour with 1 tbsp water then add to the pan and bubble up gently until thickened. Season with salt and white pepper, then pour into a clingfilm-lined, round 18cm solid cake tin or baking dish. Put in the fridge for 2 hours or until completely chilled. • Heat the oven to 220C/fan 2000/gas 7. Halve the pastry and roll into two 23cm circles. Put one piece…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018FOOD DIRECTOR’S SHOPPING BASKETJanine Ratcliffe’s favourite products We are big fans of Clarence Court eggs in the Olive test kitchen. We use its Burford Browns a lot for their guaranteed rich flavour and deep-orange yolk, so I was excited to see its new Cornish Blue duck eggs, which are frankly so pretty they are almost too good to eat – almost. Laid by wild mallard ducks, these rich eggs have extra creamy yolks which are brilliant for cake baking or for an indulgent baked brunch recipe. £2.75 for six, Waitrose. Coddled duck eggs with smoked haddock and spinach 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY baby spinach 300g double cream 200ml gruyère 100g, grated butter for the ramekins skinless smoked haddock fillets 300g, cut into pieces duck eggs 4 chives chopped to make…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018KITCHEN CRAVERHOT POT Cubic tea pot A bright, ’50s-inspired geometric design gives this stoneware tea pot a retro feel. £32.50, trouva.com BOWLED OVER Dakara ceramic bowl A brush-stroke design and crackle glaze give this bowl a lovely rustic finish. £9.95, nkuku.com COVER STAR Dusty pink apron Made by a women’s community in Thailand, this 100% cotton apron with mismatching front pockets would make a stylish and thoughtful addition to any kitchen. £39, en.smallable.com REFINED PALETTE Georgi dinner plate This hand-painted, multicoloured plate is glazed to give a subtle sheen. £20, anthropologie.com FINE PRINT Black Leaf tea towel Acclaimed 20th-century textile designer Lucienne Day’s iconic black leaf design is printed onto 100% linen for a vibrant yet practical tea towel. £19.50, twentytwentyone.com A REAL CORKER Normann sugar bowl Designed in Copenhagen, this…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018HOT CAKES!Carrot, pistachio and toasted marshmallow cake 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES SERVES 10 | EASY Carrots, pistachios and almonds give this gluten-free cake a rich, moist crumb, and the marshmallow icing is a lighter topping than traditional buttercream. eggs 3 large golden caster sugar 200g sunflower oil or light rapeseed oil 150ml vanilla extract 1 tsp orange blossom water 2 tsp ground almonds 150g gluten-free wholemeal flour 75g gluten-free baking powder 1 tsp desiccated coconut 75g mixed spice and ground cinnamon ½ tsp each carrots 2 large, peeled and grated to make 180-200g oranges 2, zested, and 1, juiced lime 1, zested and juiced pistachios 100g, finely chopped TOASTED MARSHMALLOW ICING egg whites 3 large caster sugar 150g cream of tartar ½ tsp vanilla extract ½ tsp • Heat the oven…13 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018ADAM’S KITCHEN NOTEBOOKI learned a lot during my time as a restaurant chef. Experiencing each section of a kitchen was a different part of my culinary education. Working in a fine- dining pastry (dessert) section is an exercise in precision. There are detailed recipes to direct you, and these are needed because desserts cannot be made on instinct. They need to be perfect every time, and for that you need consistency. Creating this crémeux – a custard-based ganache – brought back a few of those memories. In a restaurant it meant weighing out the chocolate exactly, and painstakingly chopping it to ensure it fully and evenly melted. Weighing the custard ingredients and cooking it using a digital thermometer (a difference of 1-2C will mean a change in the set of the custard,…3 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018MASH UP!Devilled coronation eggs 45 MINUTES + COOLING | MAKES 24 | EASY | eggs 12 ready-roasted chicken breast 1 (skin on) butter 25g spring onions 4, finely chopped medium curry powder 1 tbsp mild chilli powder ½ tsp, plus extra to sprinkle mayonnaise 3 tbsp greek yogurt 2 tbsp mango chutney 2 tbsp (any big pieces chopped) lemon a squeeze of juice coriander leaves to serve • Put the eggs into cold water, bring up to a gentle simmer, then cook for 10 minutes. Drain and leave under cold running water until completely cooled. • Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Pull the skin off the chicken and put on a non-stick baking tray. Put in the oven and cook for 12-15 minutes or until most of its fat…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018CHEF’S TABLEStar dishes BEER AND ONION TARTE TATIN WITH GOAT’S CURD ROASTED SKATE WING WITH CHARRED LEEKS AND SAMPHIRE FRIED ARTICHOKE WITH MISO MAYONNAISE Where to find us 119 QUEEN’S ROAD LONDON SE15 2EZ In the past few years Peckham has become one of south London’s culinary hot spots – from the seasonally led, Mediterranean-inspired Artusi, to the Coal Rooms, which serves up smoky chargrilled meat and fish in what was once Peckham Rye station ticket office. The latest addition to this fertile restaurant scene is Kudu, a stylish neighbourhood outfit that has crafted a small but expertly curated menu of modern European dishes that also draws inspiration from head chef Patrick Williams’ South African roots. He opened the place with partner Amy Corbin, for whom restaurants run in the family…6 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Table-hoppingLE PONT DE LA TOUR, LONDON SE1 Le Pont de la Tour has held an iconic position on the Thames waterfront since 1992, although the cooking has gone through many changes, the latest of which is the appointment of chef Julien Imbert (ex-head chef of City Social where he gained the restaurant’s first Michelin star). The cosy, low-lit dining room has one of the best views in London. The bar/brasserie and separate restaurant stretch through one long narrow room overlooking the river, and at night the lit-up Tower Bridge can be seen twinkling through the windows. The vibe is grown-up – think crisp white linen, sparkling glassware and attentive (but not overbearing) service. Julien’s food is billed as French with modern touches. We shared some spankingly fresh oysters served two…6 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018THE MEASUREPERK LIFE The London Coffee Festival is back in April for four days of hands-on workshops, expert demos, tastings and live music. The Coffee Masters competition will see some of the world’s top industry pros battle it out, while workshops will be on hand to show you how to pull a barista-level espresso at home. There will also be an espresso martini party (look out for a Baileys flat white version), latte art tutorials, in-depth tastings, roasting demos and more. Not sure you can make it? Tune into our Facebook Live at the festival, details of which will be released online nearer the time. 12-15 April at Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London. Tickets from £14.50; londoncoffeefestival.com PICK YOUR OWN Those who love to make their own brews will enjoy…2 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018COOK LIKE A LOCAL VENICEFood isn’t often the prime reason why people visit Venice; mostly they come for the grand palazzos, the Titians, the Tintorettos and the dreamy canal views – all of which are, of course, worth travelling for. But Venetian cuisine, with its succulent seafood and its heady, exotic spices, is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. It’s also where you’ll find the true spirit of the city. Amble off the beaten track, away from the main piazzas and the vendors peddling stale panini to unwitting tourists. Make your way into the quieter parts of town, where laundry hangs out to dry on lines stretching from window to window across the alleyways, and children play hopscotch in the campo. There you will find the really good food – unpretentious, far from glamorous, but…2 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018THE LOWDOWN SUGARUNREFINED VERSUS REFINED All sugar starts off with the same process – extraction from sugar cane or sugar beet. Refined white sugar (such as caster and granulated) goes through many different processes in order to produce the distinctive pure white crystals. Unrefined sugar doesn’t go through the same amount of steps so retains more of its natural colour and flavour. Always look for the word ‘unrefined’ when buying brown sugars – sugar labelled simply ‘soft brown sugar’ is often just refined white sugar that has had molasses added to give colour, texture and flavour. STORING SUGAR Keep sugar in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. Brown sugars are prone to hardening (this is perfectly natural and just occurs as a result of moisture loss). To reintroduce moisture, tip…4 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018SeasonalMussels with orzo and ’nduja 40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | Pernod 200ml mussels 500g, cleaned olive oil 1 tbsp onion 1, finely chopped garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped fennel seeds 1 tsp ’nduja 50g, broken into pieces (see cook’s notes) orzo 300g tomatoes 2 ripe, chopped flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, chopped lemon 1, wedged, to serve • Put the Pernod in a large, deep, lidded frying pan and bring to the boil. Tip in the mussels, put on the lid and cook for 5 minutes or until the mussels open. Drain, reserving the liquid. • Heat the olive oil in the same pan, add the onion and garlic, and cook gently for 5-10 minutes or until soft. Add the fennel seeds and ’nduja, and cook for…5 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018CHEESE DREAMSFrying pan potato bread with melting raclette and pickle dressing 1 HOUR | SERVES 2-3 | EASY raclette 150g, chopped into pieces POTATO BREAD Maris Piper potatoes 400g, skin on salted butter 50g, plus extra for the frying pan self-raising flour 100g, plus extra for dusting sea salt flakes ½ tsp black peppercorns ground to make ½ tsp DRESSING dijon mustard 3 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp shallot 1, finely chopped pickled silverskin onions a handful, finely chopped gherkins a handful, finely chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch, finely chopped • For the potato bread, put the potatoes in a pan of salted cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 25-30 minutes or until they’re cooked through. Drain, allow to cool slightly then peel. Tip into…5 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018COOK everydayChargrilled tuna with crunchy lemon bulgar salad 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | tuna steaks 2 olive oil 2 tsp SALAD lemon 1, ½ juiced, ½ cut into wedges garlic ½ a clove red onion ¼, finely diced celery 2 stalks, finely diced baby plum tomatoes 8, diced cucumber ¼, finely diced flat-leaf parsley a small bunch, chopped bulgar wheat 2 tbsp • To make the salad, put all the ingredients except the bulgar in a bowl, season really well then toss together. The garlic is there to help flavour the salad without becoming overpowering so discard it before serving. • Put the bulgar wheat in a bowl and just cover with boiling water. Cover with clingfilm then leave for 20 minutes. Drain really well then tip onto…7 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 20183 WAYS WITH YOGURTChilled cucumber, dill and yogurt soup 20 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 4 | EASY | greek yogurt 500g cucumbers 2 garlic 1 clove, sliced mint a small bunch, leaves picked dill a small bunch white wine vinegar 2 tbsp celery seeds 1½ tsp, plus a pinch to serve white pepper feta 100g, finely crumbled extra-virgin olive oil 1-2 tbsp rye bread thinly sliced, to serve • Put the yogurt in a food processor or blender. Save a finger-length chunk of cucumber for serving, then peel and deseed the rest, reserving the seeds. Roughly chop the cucumber and put in the blender too with the garlic, mint, most of the dill, vinegar and celery seeds. Blend as smoothly as you can. Check the consistency – if it’s a little thick,…3 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Kate Hawkings on... WOMEN IN WINEIt will come as no surprise that the world of wine is dominated by men. Statistics are hard to come by but in my long experience at wineries, tastings and other industry events it seems apparent that men – from growers and makers to merchants and buyers – outnumber women by at least 10 to one. In the spirit of solidarity I make a point of looking out for female winemakers and it’s great to see so many coming to the fore. More women are taking over the traditionally male role of winemaking in family-owned estates. Nearly all those I speak to say they’ve had to work harder to prove themselves. Discrimination still occurs, such as the young woman I met in Bordeaux last year who was not permitted to…3 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Grown-up hotels with family appealSurrey A modern take on the classic English country house hotel, Beaverbrook has bedrooms and suites split between a grand Victorian manor house and a farmhouse-chic Garden House (whose interconnecting rooms make it ideal for families). Food is taken as seriously as the décor, from The Dining Room, an exceptional Japanese restaurant (try the yellow tail tiradito with yuzu soy), to the relaxed Garden House restaurant. There’s a ’20s-style co*cktail bar and cookery school, while children can join a weekend kids club, watch films in a cinema room or chill out with air hockey and books. Family rooms start from £300 per night for four (two under-fives); beaverbrook.co.uk Cornwall Right opposite the beach in chic St Mawes, Cornwall’s St Mawes Hotel has seven smart bedrooms (one is a family room…2 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Half-price quality steaksThe Hook’N’Block mission is to deliver high-quality, value-for-money meat direct to your door. The Berkshire-based supplier is passionate about its products and wants to see the return of quality meat to your dinner table at a fair price. With more than 45 years’ experience in the meat trade, and eight years selling online, comes a superior knowledge of meat. All of its British suppliers are selected on rigorous principles and, where possible, meat is outdoor bred. All of the meat is labelled and has full traceability. Hook’N’Block offers a no-quibble guarantee on all of its products. This meat box offer contains eight fresh British steaks hand cut by butchers on the day of dispatch: 4 x 200g rump steaks 4 x 200g sirloin steaks The meat is vacuum-packed to lock…1 min
Olive Magazine|Easter 2018Last bite recipeMuscovado fudge 30 MINUTES + COOLING MAKES 50 PIECES | A LITTLE EFFORT double cream 500ml light muscovado sugar 500g liquid glucose 1 tbsp vanilla extract 1 tsp • Line a 20 x 20cm brownie tin with baking paper. Put the cream, sugar and glucose in a pan. Heat gently, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves, then turn up the heat and simmer, stirring regularly, until the temperature reaches 115-117C on a sugar thermometer (the soft ball stage). Take off the heat and stir in the vanilla. • Pour into the lined tin then leave until cool and set. Cut into 50 little squares. PER PIECE 92 KCALS | FAT 5.4G SATURATES 3.3G | CARBS 10.6G | SUGARS 10.3G FIBRE 0G | PROTEIN 0.2G | SALT 0G Easter rocky road…1 min
